A review of a new cookbook, written up in NPR’s The Salt:

“People usually think Mexican food was, oh, the intermarriage of Spanish and Mexican,” Jinich says. “No way!”

Less well-known is the culinary imprint left by large waves of Africans brought to Mexico as slaves during the Spanish colonial era; by Japanese, Filipino and Chinese immigrants (the latter of whom created a Chinese-Mexican fusion food just south of the U.S. border); and by the many Lebanese who arrived after World War I — bringing with them the technique of roasting meat on a turning spit for shawarma. That became a gastronomic ancestor to tacos al pastor,now a signature street food of Mexico City.

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