Goodbye Ketchup, Hello Sriracha! How Immigrants Transform US Cuisine, published by The Voice of America, has a nice exploration of how the rise of sriracha in “American cuisine” reflects earlier patterns of how different waves of immigration have changed American cuisine.  It also has a nice interview with Krishnendu Ray, professor of food studies at New York University and author of The Ethnic Restaurateur.  A quote from the article:

“Overall, immigrants have been way over-represented in the feeding occupations in American history. When we match the occupations and birthplace data, we see baker, butcher, green grocer, saloon keeper, tavern keeper, subsequently cook…they’re all foreign born,” Ray said, “meaning that 70, 80, 90 percent of bakers, butchers, saloon keepers in New York City [and] in the major cities, are foreign born and in the rest of the country, in the smaller towns, they add up almost to 50 percent.”

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